"Gates-of-Hell" Surcotes

[Fulgour]

A style of women's clothing worn in the Middle Ages and
Renaissance was termed by the clergy (and I'm sure, adopted
by one and all) as "the gates of hell." Some of the particular
names I have found associated with such garments are:

Cyclas, Sideless Surcotes, and Pellotes.

The source of "Cyclas" found in most European languages
in the Middle Ages, appears to have been Arabic (originally
Persian) siqlatun, also siqilat, siqalat, etc. The original Persian
term, sakarlat, is the same word from which we derive Scarlet.
The primary meaning was: scarlet cloth. Later, fine painted
or figured cloth, and, cloth of gold.

Therefore, I am researching what the French and Italian words
were for these dresses, and if perhaps we may find an important
clue as to a possibly overlooked Tarot de Marseille dress style.

How would "gates of hell" translate in the popular languages,
especially as applied then to these delightful ladies fashions?

Thanks!

[HudsonGray]

My sister's into the clothing side of the SCA, I'll ask her if she's come across anything relevant.

[Fulgour]

Thanks HudsonGray!
I'm hoping too for a leg up with the language barrier.
It seems such a simple thing, a casual fashion reference,
but these things can be very subtle and peculiar...
"Portes d'enfer" may say 'gates of hell' in a literal sense,
but it's more likely the everyday expression was kinder.

To see the dresses, simply use Google search keywords:
"gates of hell sideless surcote" ~ they look quite comfy

[HudsonGray]

She sent me this link: http://www.geocities.com/karen_larsdatter/surcoats.htm

I don't know that it helps overmuch, but hey, it's something!

[Fulgour]

The second half of the 14th century also saw the development of the sideless gown or sideless surcoat, a sleeveless overtunic with the front of the bodice cut away, sometimes to a narrow strip. The sideless gown was often edged or entirely made with fur. In this case, more of the close-fitting undergown could be seen, advertising the figure of the wearer in a way which caused over-moralistic clerics to dub the sideless gown "the gates of hell."

Medieval Costume (http://users.iafrica.com/m/me/melisant/costume/garb4.htm)

[Fulgour]

Could there have been something more to Jean Dodal's
seeming bit of artistic license in this striking rendition of
the dramatically revealing bodice design: TEMPERANCE (http://letarot.com/images/original-Dodal/Dodal-bas/XIIII-web-bas.jpg).
Have artists inadvertantly amended an important detail?
I have always been impressed by the wisdom and humour
of the ancients, which so often perform as one in their art.
Visual clues in many cards show an aptitude for exageration.

[HudsonGray]

Wow, that looks like a fake set of boobs worn over the clothing (the sleeves go under it). What the heck were they trying to portray? That even clothed, sexuality wins out? That's supposed to be an angel, you don't mess with angels like that without a reason (and they're supposed to be above sex, aren't they? Innocent?).

[Fulgour]

http://letarot.com/pages/49.les_images_du_tarot_de_jean_dodal.htm
___________

Dodal goes back to 1701-1715 and Payen is gone back to 1713. This engraver was still informed of the interior direction of the tarot. He has a freshness, a naivety, a frankness of feature touching, pleasant. And moreover, it is erudite!

Some meaning details belong only to this tarot, others are shared with the historical tarots. His young woman of the XVII TOILLE, is pregnant, the flame of XVI HOUSE DIEV is ascending, the angel of VI IN LOVE A the bandaged eyes, XIV TEMPERANCE has the naked centres, one of the children of the XVIIII SUN is blind, the XII PANDU and her strange hands....

However, we are already at the XVIII 2nd century, and, even if the XV Devil traditionally preserves its second face on the belly and its eyes on the knees, already, with mystery XIII Death is not quoted any more and Fol has the covered buttocks.

This second face on the belly of the Devil makes me think of this training of the "direction" of the stone in fraternities. If the stone "attracts" the belly, it is in a direction, if it "pushes back", it is in another direction. To build crowned, it is necessary to take account of this direction. This second face, systematically makes me think of this method "of looking at" the stone. As for the eyes on the knees, it is to the Jesuits that they make me think. Indeed, on their premises, the knees are called: "the small head".

__________

Le Dodal date de 1701-1715 et le Payen est daté de 1713. Ce graveur était encore instruit du sens intérieur du tarot. Il a une fraîcheur, une naïveté, une candeur de trait touchante, plaisante. Et en plus, il est savant!

Quelques détails signifiants n'appartiennent qu'à ce tarot, d'autres sont partagés avec les tarots historiques. Sa jeune femme de XVII LE TOILLE, est enceinte, la flamme de XVI LA MAISON DIEV est ascendante, l'ange de VI L'AMOUREUX a les yeux bandés, XIV TEMPERANCE a les seins nus, un des enfants de XVIIII LE SOLEIL est aveugle, XII LE PANDU et ses étranges mains, ....

Cependant, nous sommes déjà au XVIII ème siècle, et, même si XV Le Diable conserve traditionnellement son second visage sur le ventre et ses yeux sur les genoux, déjà, à l'arcane XIII La Mort n'est plus citée et Le Fol a les fesses couvertes.

Ce second visage sur le ventre du Diable me fait penser à cet apprentissage du "sens" de la pierre dans les fraternités. Si la pierre "attire" le ventre, elle est dans un sens, si elle "repousse", elle est dans un autre sens. Pour construire sacré, il faut tenir compte de ce sens. Ce second visage, systématiquement me fait penser à cette méthode de "regarder" la pierre. Quant aux yeux sur les genoux, c'est aux jésuites qu'ils me font penser. En effet, chez eux, les genoux sont surnommés : "la petite tête".

[Fulgour]

Does anyone know what this style of clothing was called
in French and Italian? ("Gates of Hell")

It would really be appreciated. :)

[jmd]

Temptation, my dear, temptation - which can but lead to one place.

Better for the surcoat to neither reveal nor invite than for perdition to beckon!

... not saying I agree, of course, but I can see why it would have been called such by the more puritan (or obsessive) types :)

[Ross G Caldwell]

Originally posted by Fulgour
Does anyone know what this style of clothing was called
in French and Italian? ("Gates of Hell")

It would really be appreciated. :)

My Petit Robert (French) and Zanichelli (Italian), both big dictionaries, don't have "pellotes" or "cyclas" - so it is a puzzle.

Du Cange (Glossarium mediae et infimae latinitatis) has an entry for "Pellotum", where he simply notes it is a type of draping garment; he gives no romance language equivalents.

There are some guides to medieval clothing in my library, so I'll look there when I get a chance.

According to http://www.anastacias.com/Scrappies.htm

"The Pellotes or Sideless Surcoat worn in the 12th cent. legend has it that this surcoat was known as the Gates of Hell because the style tempted men to look upon the woman's figure in a close fitting under garment."

(but you already knew that)

[Fulgour]

Silvia (thanks!) posted a reference to this passage on another thread,
regarding La Maison Dieu:

Genesis 28, 10 – 18: “Jacob left Beersheba and set out for Haran.
[...]
When Jacob awoke from his sleep, he thought, "Surely the LORD is
in this place, and I was not aware of it." He was afraid and said,
"How awesome is this place! This is none other than the
house of God; this is the gate of heaven."

Early the next morning Jacob took the stone he had placed under
his head and set it up as a pillar and poured oil on top of it.
He called that place Bethel, though the city used to be called Luz.”

*

I can (respectfully) imagine: xiii XIIII xv XVI xvii (gates?)

*

ADDED Re Eberhard's posting (see below)
High Middle Ages, 14th Century
Armelloses Surkot = "Sideless Surcote"

http://www.gandiva.de/03_Teufelsfenster_gross.413x576.jpg

http://www.gandiva.de/Teufelsfenster_gross.813x574.jpg

Teufels Fenster = "Devils Window" (approx.)

[smleite]

"Hell and heaven are within you, both gates are within you.
When you are behaving unconsciously there is the gate of hell; when you become alert and conscious, there is the gate of heaven."

by Osho

[Eberhard]

In this (http://www.gandiva.de/html/body_mittelalter.html) article on the site of a workshop in Germany specializing in the reconstruction of medieval garments they call it "Surkot", "Teufelsfenster" (windows of/for the devil) because the Surkot allowed to have a glimpse of the waistline. The picture was taken from: H.Norris "Medieval Costume and Fashion".