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Join Date: 17 May 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregory
Has anyone here been given a cold laminated deck that started to peel and put it trough a hot laminator to fix ?? (not the CARD peeling, ONLY the laminate...) My cold laminator won't take single cards that I can see...
Yes, I tried that with the cards that were separating, and it does not work.

So, first they were cold laminated, then used a lot, then separated
(not all of the deck but probably about 1/3 of the cards in the deck).

I did run them through a hot laminator and it did not seal the separation because
the separation was actually the card stock (in the center) that separated.

So the cold laminator works perfectly...and I am thinking it is the paper that is
the problem. The cold lamination film with the Xyron 9 or 5 does NOT peel off the corners.
It is the paper separating actually.

So, you only have need for a cold Xyron laminator with ROLL lamination...
it is so easy and looks great and wears great, but it is so strong on the
corners that it pulls on the card stock, thus causing the card stock to
separate from itself. It tends to pull from the FRONT not the back.
So you then have a very thin front corner laminate that still has the 'image'
of the card adhered to it, but most of the rest of the card stock has separated
from this. The back corner is stable because it has most of the card stock
still adhered to it.

So, I am inclined now, to think that maybe there is a process in which we
might be able to 'strengthen' all of the corners BEFORE lamination! What a
great idea, thank you, aurarcana.

I think, maybe, we should pursue along the lines of 'sealing the corners' before lamination.
Note: I have tried a sealant on the face and the back of the cards
but it tends to leave lines and shows through the lamination. I have tried thinning
down the sealant with water, but then it 'curls' the card stock way too much.
I never thought about JUST sealing the corners only...what a great idea!

Except, if you want to do that BEFORE lamination (which makes sense),
then you would have to cut the cards out BEFORE lamination and that
means you couldn't use the Xyron 9 machine and you would have to use
the Xyron 5 machine instead...at a GREATER COST...only 18' per roll verses
about 40 to 50' per roll. YIKES...that is a big difference.

So, since I only make my cards for 'myself'...I do not sell cards I make...
then it probably makes better sense, for me, to just 'glue' the corners when
the fluff and separate. If someone is selling them, then they would have to
cut out each card from the card stock page, then seal the corner somehow,
then laminate on the manual cold xyron 5" laminator. It adheres much better
than the hot lamination pouches talked about here. As I said above, the main
drawback this way, is the cost effectiveness.


RE: corner rounder
Then, after laminating, I cut the cards out, and then I use my manual corner rounder
(Lassco model 20) that I bought on ebay for around $149. BUT worth it...every penny)
The very thin lamination from the Xyron machines is NOT a problem with my
corner rounder machine and the process for rounding a whole deck only takes minutes.
The corner rounder instructions say you can do many at once, but I only do
one at a time because I want it 'precise'...since I am a very detailed and precise person...

A word about the 'cold' Xyron lamination.
I find it so much better than hot lamination because it is never stiff ... very
nice and flexible. And if you want thicker cards, just up the paper weight you use.
Thinner cards? ...of course, lower the paper weight.

BTW, since gregory is using a 120 gsm card stock (which is a 32# weight in the usa),
she probably doesn't have as much problem with the card stock itself separating.

For me, the 32# paper with a 3 mil hot pouch would be thinner, but I think,
still to 'stiff.' I am thinking of experimenting with a 58# paper next and see
if it is too thin with the xyron lamination. I think it will be too thin, for me.

Re: 12 mil card stock
I recently found that different 'brands,' that list the same 12 mil thickness,
are actually not the same. Some brands say 12 mil but are a little thinner than 12 mil! ...go figure
So then that can make a difference. You just have to do a lot of experimenting.

If anyone has any ideas on how to 'reinforce' the corners BEFORE peeling,
that would be very helpful to post in this thread...

tarotlyn
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