Defacing the Rider-Waite

chongjasmine

I wish I know how to remove the copyright sign from my rider-waite deck.
I do not want to damage the cards.
 

rwcarter

I wish I know how to remove the copyright sign from my rider-waite deck.
I do not want to damage the cards.
If you've got a heavily laminated USG deck, I don't think there's a lot you can do to remove the copyrights without damaging the cards (or at least seriously defacing them). If you have an older (meaning less heavily laminated version), you might be able to erase the copyrights following LRichard's instructions closer to the beginning of the thread.
 

KariRoad

If I could, I'd post an image of a Template eraser guide. It's basically a playing-card size metal rectangle with various openings, and to erase away that BS 'copyrighted' all you need is a good old fashion INK PEN eraser. But that is going back to pre-WhiteOut days.

http://www.duall.com/store/product/104739.104739/eraser-shield-template.html


http://www.dickblick.com/products/faber-castell-perfection-eraser-pencil-with-brush/

The trick is to remove rather than erase, to gently lift the offending 'copyright' off,
rather than to grind it away. "Wash" it off with soft pressure, smooth it from view!

To really achieve the perfect effect, get a quality WHITE art pencil and gently colour over and thus fill in the erased area on each card.

"Prismacolor Premier Colored Pencils are the most popular colored pencils. Each colored pencil features a thick, soft core made from brilliant, light-resistant pigments, to ensure smooth, rich laydown and color saturation."
 

Richard

The ink pen eraser works very well on unlaminated cards. Another solution (not for everyone) is simply to use the Albano-Waite. I have a beautiful German version of the Albano, printed in Belgium, which in some ways I like even better than the Rider-Waite. The coloring is inspired by P.F. Case's instructions for coloring the B.O.T.A. deck.
 

Bhavana

To really achieve the perfect effect, get a quality WHITE art pencil and gently colour over and thus fill in the erased area on each card.

"Prismacolor Premier Colored Pencils are the most popular colored pencils. Each colored pencil features a thick, soft core made from brilliant, light-resistant pigments, to ensure smooth, rich laydown and color saturation."

I had thought of this too, I have Prismacolor and Derwent colored pencils, another good brand. The pencils would not work if you just tried to cover the copyrite, because they need a rougher, toothy area of paper to show up - but with an erased area, it would most likely work well. However, after a while, the pigment might wear off. So if I were going to do this, I would use a Derwent Inktense white pencil - these pencils are water soluble, and would be permanent when dry. You'd just have to barely moisten the tip of the pencil by just dipping the very end into water before applying to the card. Because they dry permanent, you wouldn't have to worry about the color eventually wearing off with use.


If you page down on this page, at the bottom is a chart with all of the open stock colors. A white pencil is $1.42
http://www.dickblick.com/products/derwent-inktense-pencils/
 

KariRoad

The best rule of thumb is do what works best to your satisfaction. Much of my experience comes from restoring decks that had writing, done in ink, or to conceal various stains.

The older decks were laminated, but it was a waxy finish, and Prismacolor or Derwent softcolour pencils both filled in an erasure area, and could be used beyond the erasure area to help blend in when used for the outer border area.

Sharpie ultra fine, and Bic marks it pens have often been helpful when touching up inner areas. The trick here is, laying a new color over the printed color needs a shade or tint that results in a finished match.

Working with a few decks that seemed beyond hope allowed me to experiment quite recklessly, and when you're able to save a lost deck it does make them special.
 

Richard

Titanium white artist's acrylic paint applied very thinly with a cotton swab might work.
 

KariRoad

Pencil logic

Titanium white artist's acrylic paint applied very thinly with a cotton swab might work.
Yes, but if you are going to love a deck you're gonna shuffle it, and dried paint cracks whilst blended colors stay true.
 

bogiesan

The best rule of thumb is do what works best to your satisfaction. Much of my experience comes from restoring decks that had writing, done in ink, or to conceal various stains.

Every week on "Antiques Roadshow," the experts say, "Collectors want the patina of age to be visible on the original surface. This tarot deck would have much more value if you had not refinished it and left it as it was, all stained and torn and fingerprinted and scuzzy."
They also suggest, almost as often, "A properly trained conservator could repair this tarot deck for you and you'd get, oh, say, another $20,000 at auction."
 

Richard

Yes, but if you are going to love a deck you're gonna shuffle it, and dried paint cracks whilst blended colors stay true.
Most acrylic paints here in the US have a very flexible paint film. (Acrylic = plastic.) However, as you say, it may deteriorate with use.